Category: brown butter
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Fig, Pistachio, and Cornmeal Brown Butter Blondies
adapted from smittenkitchen’s infinitely adaptable blondies
ingredients:
1 stick butter, browned
1 loose cup light brown sugar
1 egg
2 teaspoons vanilla
big pinch kosher salt
3 tablespoons coarse polenta
1/4 cup fine cornmeal
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon white whole wheat flour (can use all-purpose)
1 cup chopped dried figs
1 cup toasted chopped pistachios
directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease an 8×8 pan. Stir brown butter and brown sugar together, then stir in egg and vanilla and salt. Add in the cornmeals and flour, and stir until combined. Add in the figs and pistachios. Spread into pan and bake until golden and slightly firm to the touch, 30-35 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, slice, and remove from pan. Allow to cool completely, then dust with confectioners’ sugar, if desired.
Sand in the Vaseline
Du Beurre Noisette
I’m going to let you in on a little secret. You know those blackened, wizened, and wrinkly bananas that no one wants to eat?
They’re the sweetest and most flavorful bananas of all the land. I swear.
They may not be the most beautiful nor the most appealing, especially if one intends on eating them straight up, but in a baked good, they put other bananas to shame with their sublimely sweet and intense flavor.
The process of banana aging is simple: the sugars in the banana flesh begin to break down, as do the aromatics (benzene compounds and esters), creating a more concentrated sweet, banana-y flavor, and a very mushy and brown banana.
Not that any of that matters. What does matter is that instead of throwing those bananas away, you promise to let them rot ripen and become a dark, dark brown, then stick them in your freezer for the next time you crave banana bread, cake, or muffins. Simply pull them out an hour or so before you want to use them and put them in a warm spot to thaw. Then you can squeeze the super awesome, mushy, melted flesh out of the wrinkly skins. So appetizing. It feels like squishing a giant slug. Mmmm baby.
While I’m on the subject of banana baked goods, and though I know many people before me have said this, everyone has got to stop declaring them moist. That word seems wrong to describe a cake or bread… It feels voyeuristic and… crude. Ick.
Anyways. This banana cake was a hit among my coworkers. It’s soft, tender, and super buttery, thanks to the brown butter and brown sugar base, both of which help lock in the banana juices. (Is banana juices any better than moisture? Methinks not.) I topped it off with my favorite glaze that can be used for just about anything, from doughnuts to cakes to quick breads to eating straight out of the pan. Again, featured prominently, is du beurre noisette (brown butter), whose nuttiness is perfectly balanced with a touch of maple syrup.
This cake has so many ingredients that might work themselves into the name that I couldn’t possibly use them all (brown butter-brown sugar-buttermilk-walnut-
coconut banana bundt with a brown butter maple glaze? Too much of a mouthful), so I decided to keep it simple. So, here’s the recipe for my brimming banana bundt! It’s super moist.
| In my haste to get to the lab, I forgot to take pictures with a real camera. So instead, I have shaky iPhone pictures taken while hastily driving to work. |
Brimming Banana Bundt
Inspired and guided by the great Dorie Greenspan
Ingredients:
4 super ripe bananas, mashed
12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks, or 3/4 of a cup, or 12 ounces) unsalted butter
1 tightly packed cup brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
Big pinch sea salt
Generous tablespoon vanilla
1/2 cup buttermilk
2 2/3 cup flour
1 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
Pinch each of ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, and allspice
Handful of shredded coconut (optional)
Generous handful (or two: up to one cup) of walnuts (also optional)
Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Grease and flour a 10 cup bundt pan.
Place butter into a saucepan on medium heat and allow to brown, scraping all the lovely bits off the bottom of the pan as you go.
Meanwhile, place sugars in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.
Once the butter is properly brown and nutty smelling, add the mashed bananas to the pan and allow to cook for a minute or two.
Pour the buttered up bananas into the bowl with the sugars, and mix on medium speed until all the sugar is incorporated into the butter.
Add in the eggs, and mix until combined.
Add the vanilla, salt, spices, and buttermilk. Mixture will be super runny.
Dump in the flour and baking soda all at once, and mix until the batter thickens and holds a ribbon.
Stir in the walnuts and coconut, if desired.
Bake for 60-70 minutes, or until a skewer sent all the way to the middle of the cake comes out with just a few straggling crumbs.
Invert out of pan after 10 minutes of cooling in the pan and allow to cool.
Brown Butter Maple Glaze
(good for everything. Seriously)
Ingredients:
1/2 stick (4 tablespoons, 1/4 of a cup, 4 ounces) butter
1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
1 1/2 tablespoons heavy cream, or more as needed
Directions:Brown butter in a saucepan.
Once brown, dump in the sugar and whisk, creating what I like to call a “sugar roux”.
Once a creamy paste has formed, add in the maple syrup and stir.
Add in enough heavy cream so that the mixture is pourable (this can also be replaced, wonderfully, when it is available, with apple cider, which creates a beautiful autumnal glaze).
Pour over cooled cake.
Elvis
Happy father’s day to any and all dads out there, especially mine. My dad is the best… Sorry everyone, but it’s true. There is no contest.
I am a daddy’s girl, the little princess of my house. I am openly admitting it… I’m not ashamed. I am so grateful to have grown up with a dad who is so loving, caring, kind, and gentle. He has the most generous soul and he is my rock- always has been. I appreciate everything he’s given and taught me, done for me, and put up with from me; it’s not always easy being the father of a stubborn little diva.
Thank you, Daddy, for teaching me all that you have. You’re the best man I will ever meet, of that I’m sure. I love you more than words can describe; I will never be able to express how thankful and blessed I feel to have a dad like you.
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| We like cake, okay? |
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| I spent the entire day at my parents’ renewal of their vows like this, plus or minus a few chocolate strawberries. |
My dad loves peanut butter and jelly sandwiches like no one I have ever met. Personally, I can do without them, but he could not live without peanut butter and perhaps some sandwich bread, too. He also, no surprise here, loves peanut butter and banana sandwiches, akin to Elvis’ favorite meal. I wanted to recreate a peanut butter banana sandwich in a cake for father’s day, so I made a brown butter banana cake (for the fried taste, reminiscent of buttery sandwich bread), filled with peanut butter cream cheese frosting and iced with homemade macadamia-hazelnut nutella cream cheese frosting (I’m sure the King would approve of a bit of nutella being added to the mix…). Lawd have mercy this stuff is good. This is not the kind of cake that demands intricate piping. I opted for big, shaggy, home-style swirls instead, and I ended up liking the messy look. I then affixed a little banner to the top of the cake, to give it a little more oomph: I love the way banners look, and you’re sure to see them pop up more soon.
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I spent an entire week in France like this,
plus or minus a few tartes au citron.
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This one’s for you, Dad. I love you.
Ingredients:



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