Big Time

There are so many kinds of time. The time by which we measure our lives. Months and years.
Or the big time, the time that raises mountains and makes stars.
Or all the things that happen between one heartbeat and the next. It’s hard to live in all those kinds of times.
Easy to forget that you live in all of them.

Robert Charles Wilson, Spin

This last month (and the two years preceding it) has felt like a steady drip-drip-drip of suffering for my family.
Each new insult feels surely like cosmic punishment, or perhaps a sick, divine joke.
If before we were limping along, and then dragging ourselves, now we are propelled forward—gracelessly—simply by the unwearying force of time (which during these challenges has a perturbing malleability, sometimes pushing us at the speed of light, sometimes stretching achingly slowly). I have zero self-generated kinetic energy left.
If before we were enduring, then stoic, now we are numb and resigned.
Super, super great mood around these parts!! Very cheery!!

At least, and as always, baking and cooking remain to me, and in these I find some comfort, or at least a thimbleful of dignity.

Though it is being shared under inauspicious words and vibes and was originally served and eaten under the same circumstances, this tart would be a welcome addition to a festive spread, and would hold its own against pumpkin or apple pies, or gingerbread, or sugar cookies.
It’s quite tempting and impressive to look at with its mountain of whipped cream, yet is a petite 7 inches in diameter. This is ideal as I find whipped cream has poor longevity, even in the fridge—if you are serving more than 3 people, there will be few leftovers.

The crust is a crisp, espresso-laced pâte sucrée. The filling is a thin strip of intensely maple-y custard, silky smooth and with a hint of caramelization from slow cooking the maple syrup. The whole thing is topped with gigantic ribbons of sweet whipped cream, lovely and light.

On the whole, I find the bitterness of espresso to pair beautifully with the sweetness of maple. The cream is absolutely necessary for balance because espresso+maple are intense flavors. Each forkful is like a maple cappuccino!

And, because it is November 30th and holiday baking is gearing up:
Christmas, previously:

Cakes:
Alpine dreams come true: gingerbread village complete with ski lift and chalet atop a fluffy mountain cake.
A shaggy little number: coconut cream cheese cake with cranberry curd filling.
Indulgent, gorgeous, and so so French: chestnut, chocolate, and cream croquembouche au craquelin
The cutest little pink number with an even cuter, dinky reindeer: gingerbread house on an orange spice and chocolate cake.
My pride and joy, the most elaborate cake on the blog: la souche de Noël.
A different, more whimsical take on a tree cake: this eggnog-filled, bauble-bedecked Christmas tree.
Golden and gleaming, an almond and orange spice cake.
A classic: red velvet with a winter woodland theme.
The fluffiest of cakes, a chocolate and peppermint cake with marshmallow frosting.
Oldie but a goodie: chocolate buttermilk cupcakes with peppermint buttercream.

Cookies:
Construction gingerbread, built into a cabinet of curiosities. 
A gingerbread lantern, lit from within.
A gorgeous mix of textures with cream cheese holly cookies, chocolate pistachio shortbread, and maple/nutmeg/rye trees.
A box full of brownies, coffee bean cookies, maple almond swirls, and lady grey orange sugar cookies.
Simple but effective pistachio and cranberry butter cookies.
Super intricate and crunchy maple and black pepper gingersnaps.
Luster-dust highlighted sugar cookie Christmas trees.
Very grown-up chocolate orange Linzer cookies.
Festive eggnog sugar cookies, decorated with royal icing and sprinkles.
Twists on the classic: honey spice and dark chocolate sugar cookies, perfect for cutting into shapes.
Pepparkakor with lemon royal icing, decorated with mehndi-inspired swirls.
Chocolate peppermint macarons… Macarons are still my nemesis.
Classic Linzer cookies with different fillings.
Maple, nutmeg, and rye sugar cookies, dressed all in winter white.
Chocolate, sour cherry, and coconut cookies; grapefruit butter cookies; and dark chocolate pecan snowcaps, all crammed into one post.
Cinnamon toast crunch marshmallow treats, chocolate peppermint shortbread, Russian teacakes, 5-spice snickerdoodles, another post bursting with recipes.
Whimsical peppermint marshmallow ropes; not cookies per se, but great for gifting.

Maple Espresso Tart
makes 1 7″ tart
maple custard lightly adapted from NYT Cooking

special equipment:
7″ tart ring or 6″ fluted tart pan
XL petal/ribbon piping tip, I use Wilton #127D

ingredients:
for the espresso pâte sucrée:
100 grams (7 tablespoons) butter, room temperature
1/4 teaspoon salt
72 grams (scant 2/3 cup) powdered sugar
20 grams (3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) almond flour
30 grams (1/4 cup) cornstarch
36 grams (1/2) whisked egg
170 grams (1 1/3 cup plus 3 tablespoons) flour
2 teaspoons instant espresso powder

for the maple custard:
180 grams (1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon) maple syrup
315 grams (1 1/3 cup) whole milk
3 egg yolks
45 grams (3 tablespoons) half and half or heavy cream
1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
2 tablespoons butter

to assemble:
1 pint heavy cream, cold
2 tablespoons powdered sugar

directions:
Make the pâte sucrée: cream butter and salt together for 2 minutes.
Sift the powdered sugar, almond flour, and cornstarch over the butter mixture and cream for an additional 2 minutes.
Add the whisked egg and scrape the sides of the bowl; beat mixture until egg is fully incorporated, about 1 minute.
Sift the flour over the mixture and add the espresso powder.
Gently mix together for about 1 minute, until the flour is just incorporated.
Turn dough out onto a piece of parchment paper or clean counter and knead a few times (4-5) to ensure the dough is fully mixed.
Roll out to 1/4 inch thickness and use your tart ring to cut out a bottom piece (or just drape the dough over the pan if using a fluted tart pan, and fit it to the sides).
Then, cut out long 1/2 inch thick strips for the sides.
Firmly press the strips into the side of the tart ring, using a smoothing motion to also connect them to the base.
Use remaining pieces dough to cut out decorations for the tart.
Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Bake the prepared tart shell for 15-20 minutes, until golden brown.
Bake the decorations for about 5-7 minutes, depending on their size (check often to avoid burning).
Allow to cool completely.
Make the filling: heat maple syrup on medium heat for 7 minutes, keeping below a boil and stirring frequently; the syrup should reduce and be slightly thicker by the end of this. Leave over very low heat.
Meanwhile, blend milk and egg yolks together until eggs are completely incorporated.
Whisk the half and half or heavy cream with the cornstarch and salt in a small bowl, ensuring no lumps in the slurry.
Whisking constantly, slowly pour the hot maple syrup into the milk and egg mixture.
Once maple syrup is fully incorporated, briskly whisk in the cornstarch mixture.
Return the custard to the saucepot and heat over low-medium heat, stirring constantly, until thickened. Be sure to keep over the heat for an additional 1 minute after it is thickened to ensure the starchy flavor of the cornstarch is cooked out (and if it is not, keep the custard over the heat until it is).
Remove from heat and whisk in butter.
Pour custard into prepared tart pan and press a piece of saran wrap to the top to prevent a skin from forming.
Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.
Finally, whip the cream and powdered sugar to soft peaks.
Pipe onto the tart as desired and decorate with crust cutouts and sanding sugar.

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